Sunday, February 2, 2014

Waterford- The Oldest City in Ireland

On Friday, Tierney and I ventured to Waterford which is the oldest city in Ireland and the first Royal City, given the honor by King Henry II.  Waterford is probably most well known in the U.S. though for it's crystal.  We decided to start our day with a tour of the Waterford Crystal Factory which was rebuilt in a new location in 2010 in combination with the Waterford City Council Building.  Luckily, since we had no idea where in the city the factory was, the bus drove right past it on the way to the bus station, so we just started walking back the way the bus came.  As per usual when you have to walk anywhere in Ireland, it was raining and windy, but we made it.

We got to the factory around 11:20, and the next tour wasn't leaving until noon so we had a quick look around the gift store, and then decided it would be best to grab some coffee to warm up.  They had a very nice coffee shop connected to the factory entrance and it wasn't too expensive.

We headed back to the desk at noon, and the tour guide told us we were the only ones who were signed up for the tour! Score, private tour! (And we got a 2 for 1 admission because of a guidebook, so we only paid 5 Euro!).  We started out the tour looking at a timeline of Waterford Crystal that dated back to 1783, and had crystal pieces from all the different eras.  There was also an amazing clock that is only steel supports and crystal apart from the actual mechanics of the clock, valued at over $150,000.

We didn't take any pictures further inside, but we were able to see all the steps of the process, from making the molds, to the glassblowing, drawing grids of the patterns on the pieces, making the cuts and the final embellishments, as well as the quality control that happens throughout.  In each step, we were able to get up close and personal with the people who were working even chatting with a few that were not in the middle of something.  It takes each of these people at least 5 years to complete their training, the cutters need an additional 3 years, and to do the engraving and specialty pieces, you need 10 full years of training!  No wonder everything is so expensive.

It was really amazing to see the process and the detail that goes into every step.  It was also great to have a tour guide that knew so much about everything! After we saw the first quality control check point, she even let us break some of the crystal that wasn't up to par.  About 70% of the material they add to the furnace every 4 hours is pieces that have been discarded along the way, the other 30% is new raw materials; this means that a lot of the product gets discarded.  After seeing the men who work as cutters, we stopped to look at some pieces and there was a trophy our tour guide said was worth $10,000, and then just handed it to each of us and goes "Isn't it heavy?" Uh, ya it was, it was also worth $10,000 and I spent the entire time I was holding it worried I would drop it and figuring out how in the heck I was going to pay for it.  Luckily, I held it together and didn't drop it, so my bank account is still in tact.

The tour ended in the gift store which has all of the current popular patterns on display as well as some other smaller gifts etc. We asked our guide what else she suggested doing in Waterford and where a good place would be to eat lunch.  She immediately told us that a place called Geoff's was the best place to get lunch and "let me just run over to the desk and draw you out a map on how to get there".  After browsing for a while in the shop, and with our trusty drawn out map in hand, we headed outside where it had stopped raining.  Since it wasn't raining anymore we got some pictures of the outside of the building, and headed on our way to Geoff's.
The store/ showroom

The store/showroom

The entrance into the factory section of the building

Where the molds are made, crystal is blown and grids are drawn

Entrance to the building with the store, coffee shop, city council and reception area

The right part of this picture is the molds, blowing and drawing area.  The middle is where the cutters and engravers are, and the left is the building where the store is.

Tierney and I outside the building- Photo Credit to the random guy walking past who asked if we wanted a picture

Notice there is a shamrock in the seahorse's tail

We found Geoff's and headed in, it was a very big, but cute pub, with wood paneling, tables and booths.  Both Tierney and I got Potato and Leek soup which was some of the best I've had since we've been here.  After Lunch,  we wandered through the city and found a huge bookstore.
The outside of Geoff's

Inside Geoff's, it was really dark





The Bookstore



Tierney in her natural habitat (she is an English major)




We then returned to what is called "The Viking Triangle" where Waterford Crystal is located to go to the museums across the street.  The first we visited was Bishop's Palace, which is an old palace from the Georgian era.  The tour we took was guided by a Butler and Maid in 18th century dress, and was set in the 18th century. This was a very interesting tour allowing us to both learn some history as well as appreciate the artifacts they had on display.


Bishop's Palace

Entry Hall of Bishop's Palace

Gardens on the side of Bishop's Palace

Back of Bishop's Palace

Staircase in Bishop's Palace

Once we were done there, our tour guides happened to be heading next door to the Medieval museum which was our next stop, so we walked over with them.  One of them asked us where we were from and we asked where she had been in the U.S.  She had been to New York, Florida, and Seattle and wanted to go to Alaska, so I told her we were right in the middle of all four.  They were amazed at how cold it has been back in Minnesota (you guys have made the news all the way over here!)  The man who had played the Butler said it got down to -10 a few years ago here and they didn't know what to do with themselves- mind you -10 Celsius is about 14 degrees Fahrenheit.  Another example of the Irish's inability to be in the cold, at Frisbee practice this week, I was in a thin underarmour playing, while a few of the other girls were in winter coats.

We caught the last tour at the Medieval museum and got to go in and see underground casks and an old wine cellar from the 13th century.  The rest of the museum focused on the later medieval period and we learned more about Waterford's history and the relations with England.  For many years, Waterford was the one place that was allowed to import wine, so they had a few people who were extremely wealthy because they were able to control the prices of the wine.  We also saw some old religious cloaks that were sewn with thread made of gold.
Cavern before the wine cellar

One of the cloaks

Medieval Waterford Model

This book potentially (its up for debate) has the oldest English writing in it

A patchwork of all the documents sewn together that gives Waterford the status of Royal city and rights to be the only city to import wine

The City Crest of Waterford

One of the cloaks

The Wine Barrels in the Wine Cellar

Chair in the wine cellar

Wine Cellar


Once we were done at the Medieval Museum, we walked around town a bit and got a snack before heading back to the bus for the 2 hour ride back.  Once we got back, we made some dinner and relaxed.
Statue of Thomas Francis Meagher, influential politician and Army man in Ireland and the U.S.

Reginald's Tower




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